Recipes from
Taste Pure and Simple:

This
recipe proves a belief of mine. When you cook with
ingredients that sound good in your head, they will
taste good, too. I feel this way about vanilla and corn,
which may seem like a strange pair, but once you try
this combination, you’ll like it. My mom’s creamed corn
was the best, and she always added vanilla extract to
it, which pushed it over the edge into the realm of
legendary. The first time I saw an actual vanilla bean,
I was amazed, having until then thought of vanilla only
as an extract. I mailed some beans to my mother, who was
equally amazed. I quickly fell in love with their rich
flavor, and started to think of foods to pair it with,
such as rutabagas, beets, and shellfish. Most people
can’t believe there is no cream in this soup, but it’s
the corn juice—which thickens naturally because of its
own starch—that gives the chowder its rich, satisfying
texture. The vanilla bean boosts its fullness and
richness.
Sweet Corn and Vegetable Chowder
Serves 4
-
About 24 fresh ears corn, shucked
-
1 Yukon Gold Potato
-
½ split vanilla bean, or ¼ teaspoon pure vanilla
extract
-
2 pounds fresh or frozen edamame, fava, or lima beans
(about 1 cup shelled)
-
1 to 2 tablespoons water
-
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
-
½ cup shredded spinach, sorrel, or arugula
-
1 tablespoon julienned lemon zest
-
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Preheat over to 450°F.
Place 2 ears of corn directly on the over rack and
roast, turning occasionally, until golden brown, 20 to
25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. When
cool, cut the roasted corn kernels off the cob. You
should have about 1 ½ cups.
Meanwhile, cook the potato in salted boiling water until
tender in the center when pierced, 20 to 25 minutes.
Drain and let cool to the touch, Slip off the skin and
cut the potato into ¼-inch dice.
With a large, sharp knife, cut the kernels off the
remaining ears of corn. Run the kernels through a
vegetable juicer. You should have about 4 cups of juice.
Combine the corn juice and the vanilla bean in a medium
nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low
heat, stirring constantly so the liquid doesn’t curdle.
The natural starch in the juice will thicken it to a
sauce consistency. The degree of thickness will depend
on the amount of starch in the corn. If the soup is too
thick, thin it with a little water or lemon juice.
Remove from the heat.
Fish out the vanilla bean and, with the tip of a small
knife, scrape the seeds from the bean into the soup;
discard the pod. If the soup appears a little broken,
don’t worry. Blend the soup in a blender at medium speed
for a silky-smooth consistency. Return the soup to the
pot.
Put the roasted corn kernels, beans, and potato in a
medium sauté pan or skillet with the water. Bring to a
simmer over a medium heat and season with salt and
pepper. Simmer for a few minutes until the vegetables
are hot. Pour off the water and add the vegetables to
the soup. Stir in the shredded spinach or other greens,
the lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
Note: If the corn milk curdles during cooking, don’t
worry. Beat the curdled milk with an electric mixer set
on medium speed until it returns to its perfect
smoothness before you add the rest of the vegetables.
^
Back to Top

When
my chef de cuisine at Heartbeat, John Mooney,
created this dish, I was struck by its sensuousness. As
it cooks, the scallop expands to meet the embrace of the
shrimp in a miracle of geometry and reaction to heat.
They have similar flavors but different textures, and
for centuries both have teamed beautifully with Asian
flavors. This easy recipe is testament to such affinity.
Tamari Shrimp and Scallops
Serves 4
Garnish
Nestle a scallop in the curve of each shrimp. Use 2
short bamboo skewers to secure the shrimp to the
scallop. Set aside.
Pour tamari into a metal bowl set over a small saucepan
with about 2 inches of simmering water. Cook over
medium-high heat for 30-40 minutes, or until reduced by
half and slightly thickened. A salt crust will form on
top of the reducing tamari. Do not stir the crust into
the tamari. Instead, carefully pour the tamari from the
pan, leaving the salt crust behind. This will keep the
tamari from being too salty.
Heat a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat
until hot. Season each seafood skewer lightly with
pepper and then brush lightly first with the canola oil
and then with the tamari reduction.
Sear the skewers for about 2 minutes on each side, or
until lightly browned. To serve, spoon a little tamari
into the center of each of 4 plates. Place 2 of the
skewers on the sauce and garnish with the shiso leaves.
Do not use too much of the tamari reduction; it’s very
salty.
^
Back to Top

Even
chefs like to play with words, which is how I came
up with the name of this recipe. Cube steak is a tough
meat, pounded thin and barely edible. Bison strip steak,
also called buffalo, is tender and succulent. When we
were holding a series of tea-and-savory-food-pairing
tastings at Heartbeat, I created this dish to pair with
smoky bao jong tea, a kind of oolong tea. The challenge
was to cook the steak in a portion size that was
appropriate for a multitasting event. I cut the strip
steaks into small cubes, which was logical, but they
still were tricky to serve on a small plate with no
knife and fork. I cut them into smaller cubes and then
reassembled them in the original small steak, which was
very easy to eat. Because the dish had become all about
cubes, I call it “cube” steak.
Bison “Cube” Steak with Fresh Figs
Serves 4
-
½ cup dry red wine
-
Four 12-ounce New York strip bison steaks, 1 ½ to 2
inches thick, at room temperature
-
4 to 8 teaspoons grapeseed oil
-
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
-
¼ cup fig syrup or maple syrup
-
4 fresh figs, cut into quarters
-
4 sprigs watercress
In a small saucepan, bring the wine to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat and simmer wine for about 25
minutes, or until reduced to 2 tablespoons.
Cut each bison strip steak into 4 equal square or
rectangle pieces. Rub both sides of the steaks with
grapeseed oil and season generously with salt and
pepper.
Sear the steaks in a large nonstick skillet over medium
heat for about 1 ½ minutes on each side, or until
lightly browned. You might find it easier to use 2
skillets.
In a small bowl, whisk the reduced wine syrup and fig
syrup together. Drizzle each steak with all but about 2
tablespoons of the wine mixture. Cook for 2-3 minutes,
turning constantly, so that the syrup glazes the meat.
Cook about 2 minutes longer for rare, or 4-5 minutes for
medium-rare.
Transfer the steaks from the pan to a cutting board. Let
them rest for about 3 minutes, or until cool to the
touch. Cut each steak into small cubes. Reassemble the
cubes into the shape of the original steaks, pressing
them together to adhere, and place on a warmed plate.
Arrange the fig quarters on each plate and garnish with
watercress. Drizzle the remaining wine syrup over each
plate and serve.
^
Back to Top

Desserts
that don’t rely on butter, cream, and eggs are
challenging. Here, I debunk the theory that crème brûlée
must be made with heavy cream and use milk instead. The
secret weapon is the sweet potato juice, which provides
texture and an enticing flavor that is hard to pin down.
This custard is not as thick as a classic French crème
brûlée, but is more like the Spanish version, crema
catalana. Restaurant chefs don’t much like making crema
catalana because it requires constant stirring at the
stove. Be sure the custard gets thick enough–it’s worth
the effort.
Sweet Potato Brûlée
Serves 6
-
2 cups whole milk
-
½ cup raw cane sugar
-
½ vanilla bean, halved horizontally
-
8 large egg yolks
-
2 cups sweet
potato juice
-
¼ teaspoon salt
-
Grated fresh nutmeg to taste
-
2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon
In a small saucepan, combine the milk, ¼ cup of the
sugar, and the vanilla bean. Bring to a simmer over
medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the
sugar dissolves. Do not let the milk boil. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve. Reserve the vanilla bean for
another use.
Put the egg yolks in a double boiler and gradually whisk
in the hot milk. Stir in the sweet potato juice and
salt. Add the nutmeg.
Cook over a simmering water for 30 minutes, stirring
constantly, until the custard is as thick as soft
pudding.
Preheat over to 300°F.
Strain the thickened custard through a fine-mesh sieve
into a bowl. Ladle into six 8-ounce ramekins. Set the
ramekins in a roasting pan and add hot water to come
about halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake on the
center rack of the oven for 30 minutes, or until set but
not completely firm in the center.
Remove from the oven and let the ramekins cool on wire
racks. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about
2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.
Preheat the boiler or plan to use a kitchen blowtorch.
Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the remaining cane sugar over
each chilled custard. Slide the dishes under the broiler
so that they are about 3 inches form the heat source and
broil for 1 minute, or run the blowtorch slowly over the
sugar to melt and caramelize it. Watch carefully to
prevent the sugar from burning.
Heat the bourbon in a small saucepan over medium heat
just until warm. Pour 1 teaspoon bourbon over each
custard and ignite it with a match. Serve immediately.
^
Back to Top

Juicing Fruits and
Vegetables
When you juice fruits and vegetables, buy more than you
think you will need. The yield varies depending on the
moisture content of a particular fruit or vegetable, the
time of year it was harvested, where it was harvested,
and how it was stored. The amounts below are approximate
and may yield more than you need. That’s fine. Drink any
juice you don’t use. I particularly love carrot juice
and all fruit juices. Potato and squash juice aren’t
very tasty!
To prepare fruits and vegetables for juicing, wash them
under cold running water and cut away any soft spots.
You should scrub root vegetables lightly with a coarse
pad or brush, but there is no need to peel them. Slice
or cut fruits and vegetables into manageable sizes. You
should remove large pits and seeds, but there is no need
to scrape out all seeds or remove stems. The juicer will
take care of this.
For 1 cup of juice, use 1 ¼ pounds sweet potatoes
^
Back to Top |